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Peripatetic Epicurean

Layalina - a Lebanese restaurant (potentially good but overpriced) near the UN

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lebwine_h_3Anyone staying in any of the hotels near the United Nations in Geneva is always stuck for a congenial place to go for a drink (maybe a nice wine) or dinner with friends and colleagues. You want the food to be good, but not outrageously expensive. When one of our friends staying, as with many of the international aid crowd, at the Hotel Mon Repos called to meet for a Saturday evening drink, we scouted around for a nearby bistro. The Layalina, just down the road on the Rue de Lausanne (opposite the park entrance of the Perle du Lac restaurant), appeared promising with its outdoor café area...

 

Eating out in neigbouring France - From Echenevex to Divonne

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Plage_du_lac_de_DivonnePlage_du_lac_de_DivonneAs with many of us living in the Lake Geneva region, finding a decent but affordable restaurant where they take cuisine seriously is a challenge. Many of the Swiss-side restaurants are often mediocre with steep prices and quite frankly, not worth what you pay. It is always a pleasure - albeit an all too rare one - to find a place that you can rave about as "good to excellent" and that will not destroy your wallet. One option, which visitors to Geneva do not immediately think about, is the French side. Here, we have found disappointment - but also satisfaction.

   

The Auberge Lion d'Or of Cologny, Geneva

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04The Auberge du Lion d'Or is reputed to be one of the best restaurants in Geneva. The prices are stiff and more suited to expense accounts, but both the service and the food are impeccable.
   

Auberge d'Onex: Good, expensive and (somewhat) over-rated.

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phpThumbThe Auberge d'Onex on the western outskirts of Geneva is a wonderful restaurant for traditional cuisine from the Italian Piedmont. Well-worth trying but definitely overpriced.

   

The Shamwari at Jivahill: Worth trying but far from generous

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orbitz-230596-hugvajh_b3-image.jpgCROZET, Pays de Gex, France - - This stylish hotel and restaurant complex with the touch of a southern African luxury game and sports lodge is a relatively new addition to the Lake Geneva Region. Situated in a 35-hectare park just outside the small French town of St Genis in the Pays de Gex at the foot of the Jura mountains, it offers a spectacular view of Geneva and the Alps, barely ten minutes drive from the airport. During the summer, the outside terrace of the Shamwari Restaurant with its comfortable Bauhaus wicker armchairs and white parasols makes an ideal waterhole for sundowners. Jivahill’s particular attraction is that it doubles as a spa country club with an elaborate wellness centre, horse riding, golf practise area, water skiing and jogging track. Rare among Swiss and French restaurants, there is also a play area for kids. Overall, this is not a bad place for business meetings or seminars within sight of Geneva – and in a healthy, open-air environment.

   

Taking in the Lake: Recommended Geneva Restaurants

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restaurant-de-l-hotel-de-ville-geneve-restaw-193h-145p-restaurant7829s-0c-0.jpgGeneva, 27 March, 2009 - Here is a selection of Geneva restaurants (See Taking in the Lake Part I by William Dowell and Edward Girardet) recommended by Swiss, French and expatriate Essential Edge readers. We will be highlighting other reader-recommended cafes and restaurants in the Pays de Gex, La Cote, Riviera, and Haute Savoie side of the Lake in later parts of the Taking in the Lake series. If you have any special place you would like to suggest, please let us know.
   

Rougement's Comptoir d'Enhaut and the Saane River Valley

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rougemont_by_jeffcarmel.jpgThe last French-speaking village before entering the more pristine and ostentatious environs of Swiss-German and jetsetting Gstaad, Rougemont is pleasantly situated at the edge of the Canton of Vaud’s prealp Pays d’Enhaut region. Often serving more as a transit route for those heading up to the Bernese Oberland,  this is a somewhat removed area of high mountain pastures, forests and rocky promontories ideal for hiking, climbing and wildlife watching (chamois, Ibex, troyal eagles…), and, in the winter, family skiing. Of course, the largest of the Pays d’Enhaut’s three communes, Château-d’Oex further down the road toward Gruyere, is better known as the world’s balloon capital.  Essential Edge contributor Jeffrey Carmel decided to explore one of the ‘up there’ region’s best kept culinary secrets, the Comptoir d’Enhaut, a café-restaurant located in a mid-19th chalet that once belonged to one of Switzerland’s oldest priories and whose church in Rougemont village still exists, dating back to the 11th century.

   

Game Season in the Vineyards

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geneva_countryside_wines.pngAutumn in gastronomic terms is the season of “la chasse” or game and the hunt for a good game restaurant begins. The first restaurant we tracked down was Café Chaumaz in Russin on the recommendations of a friend. The Commune of Russin on the western outskirts of Geneva consists of a small group hamlets in the middle of the Canton’s principal winegrowing area. It also overlooks a major nature reserve of woodlands along the Allondon river leading into the Rhone. We drove blindly through the dark countryside, none of us having printed out the email with the address, until we stumbled upon a house of welcoming lights and friendly staff in the middle of the vineyards.

   

Le Refuge de Florimont - Great View, Good Food

Refuge de FlorimonLocally, it is know as the “Halfway Café” – halfway up the mountain, that is. Some 20 kilometres from Geneva and six kilometres up the Col de la Faucille in the Jura, the Refuge de Florimont has one of the most spectacular restaurant views in the region. This is the sort of place to bring – and impress - visitors by saying, “I happen to know a good little restaurant…"

   

Le Rectiligne: Alchemy with promise in Divonne

rectiligne1.jpgOverlooking the lake of Divonne-les-Bains in what used to be a popular pizzeria near the sailing jetty and just down from the open air swimming pool, Le Rectiligne is a valiant effort at enhancing the relatively paltry selection of fine restaurants in France's Pays de Gex region. The restaurant has been completely renovated in a technochic manner with a pleasant open terrace for warm weather dining. The interior is modern and low-key with a dark granite look, subtle lighting and thin chairs. While not exactly appealing to our sense of style, the interior remains accommodating and somewhat Nordic, if not austere. Both Sophie and Bruno Pucheu, the owners of Le Rectiligne (they also run the nearby Residence du Lac), are pushing a new style of French cuisine with imaginatively presented dishes verging on alchemy involving lots of flowing, misty vapours.

   

La Maison d'Asie

Vietnamese Food MarketOn the Rue de Lausanne less than a few minutes walk from the main Cointrin railway station, this small family affair is one of the best Vietnamese restaurants in Geneva. It’s hard to find really good Vietnamese food outside Saigon itself, San Francisco or even the 13eme arrondissement in Paris – but the Maison d’Asie’s cooking makes a good stab at it.  It certainly tastes far better than some of these rather bland, Europeanised versions of what purports to be Vietnamese food that one often finds in France and Switzerland.

   

GaultMillau 2009 awards for Lake Geneva Restaurants

gmillau.jpgThe GaultMillau Guide 2009 rewards six restaurants, incorporates fourteen new ones and promotes David Tarnowski as “discovery of the year in French-speaking Switzerland”. Once again, the Lake Geneva Region (Canton of Vaud) asserts itself as Switzerland’s leading gastronomic region with one of the densest spreads of good restaurants in Europe. The 2009 edition of the prestigious gastronomic GaultMillau guide, which was published on 14 October, shows excellent results as regards the gastronomic offer in the Lake Geneva Region (Canton of Vaud).

   

Au Bon Vin – Old Style Cooking with a flair

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au_bon_vin.jpgNow here’s a great café-restaurant worth going to – even if it is a good hour and fifteen minutes’ drive from Geneva overlooking Lake Neuchâtel. For the Au Bon Vin auberge not only has the bon vivant atmosphere of a painters’ café with its electic décor of posters, photographs, signs, oil paintings and even a Pianola and an old wind-up phonograph, plus just about anything else that caught the owners’ fancy. It also has exceptional food. Even more to the point, this no quaint little nouvelle cuisine dive where you’re still hungry at the end of the meal.
   

Rajpoute Indian & Pakistani Tandoori - A good spread

Pays de Gex, France

rajpoute.jpgThis is one of Lake Geneva's best Indian restaurants both for its price and cuisine. While we would not rank the Rajpoute among Bombay's, Dehli's or London's finest, it certainly offers a tasty spread for most palettes - mild or spicey. You will not leave disappointed. Even our well-travelled South Asian friends think it's rather good.

   

L'Ethno Bar: Relaxed and ethnic

Geneva

ethnomanas.gifOn moving to Geneva some months back, I visited L’Ethno as my first downtown bar. It remains one of my favorites.

   

Auberge Communale de Cessy - Good value traditional French cuisine

Pays de Gex, France

Located in a renovated former saddlery in the centre of the village, the Cessy Auberge Communale ranks as one of the best restaurants in the Pays de Gex. It is a favourite with both locals and expatriates. It offers good value traditional French cuisine with a respectable a la carte selection, a good wine list and several menus at graduating prices and choices.

   

La Reserve - A taste of the rich and famous

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Bellevue, Geneva

popup_loti01.jpgThis is one of Geneva’s most talked about if not mythical hotels, particularly since its redesign several years ago as a security-conscious establishment worthy of any visiting royalty or head of state.

   

Restaurant La Bourse: Just like Paris

Carouge, Geneva

blavignac.jpg

A lively French-style brasserie in Carouge, La Bourse has food as good as the Café des Négociants just down the street, but somewhat less upmarket.

   

Cafe des Negociants: A bistro with style

Carouge, Geneva

If you like Carouge – Geneva’s response to the Greenwich Village in the southwestern part of the city – and want a low-key but still lively place to dine out in style, then the Café des Negociants is a promising choice. The food (Swiss and French) is excellent and the wine cellar a joy.

   

Haute Cuisine for Kids

French cuisine not just for adultsIf your child is interested in cooking or becoming the next Paul Bocuse, this is the chance for him or her to become a little chef with style. Move over Girardet, Troisgros et al!

   

Thanksgiving & Xmas Turkeys

PRACTICAL MEASURES

No small birds pleaseWondering where to get that quality 10 kg - and even 15 kg - turkey for Thanksgiving? Or for Christmas? Even if most butchers on the French and Swiss sides of the border insist that they don't exist?

   

Thai Phuket - Good eating, good meeting

Geneva 

This is one of the best Thai restaurants in Geneva. Only a few minutes stroll from the Place des Nations and just behind the UNHCR, it’s also a good place to meet. The lunchtime menus are authentic and tasty with the plat du jour an inexpensive and satisfying affair. This is the favourite haunt for many international aid workers, business people, journalists, interns and students. However, be sure to book as tables fill rapidly. The fish dishes are excellent as are the soups.

 

Thai Phuket

33 Avenue de France, Geneva

Tel. 41-22-734-4100

 

   

Cafe du Soleil - International Hangout

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Petit-Saconnex, Geneva

Nearly 400 years old, this is one of Geneva's most established café-restaurants. Located just opposite the church in Petit-Saconnex and only a few minutes walk from the Intercontinental Hotel, and a few more from the UN’s Palais des Nations, this is a pleasantly laid-back meeting place for anyone working internationally.

   

Pere Bise: Disappointment for what once was...

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Lake Annecy, France

pere_bise.jpgThe Pere Bise restaurant on Lake Annecy is not what it used to be. Overpriced, the food lacks excitement and verve.